Alexandria

Alexandria stretches twenty miles along the Mediterranean shore. It looks north toward Europe rather than south toward Cairo. You come here for seafood, sea air, and fragments of ancient empires buried under 19th-century European facades. Expect traffic, salty sea breezes, and an unhurried coastal rhythm.

Alexandria eats differently from Cairo. Seafood dominates local menus, bought fresh at the morning markets in Bahary and prepared to order. You select raw fish, shrimp, or squid from ice display trays, pay by weight, and specify the cooking method: split open and baked or grilled with seasoned chopped vegetables (singari), prepared with oil and lemon (zeit wa lamoon), or fried.

• Pay by weight

  Traditional fish restaurants charge per kilogram based on the day's catch. Price includes basic side salads and pita bread.

• Kebda Alexandrani

  Local street stalls serve Alexandrian liver cooked with green chili, garlic, and cumin in small bread rolls. Order it fresh off the hot plate.

• Classic patisseries

  Grand mid-century cafes around Raml Station serve Greek and Italian-style pastries alongside espresso and Turkish coffee.

Alexander the Great founded the city in 331 BC to link Macedonia with the Nile Valley. Under Ptolemaic rule, it became the intellectual capital of the Mediterranean basin before falling to Rome. Earthquakes and coastal subsidence eventually sank much of the ancient royal quarters into the harbor.

1. 331 BC

   City foundation

   Alexander the Great orders Dinocrates to lay out a grid city between the Mediterranean and Lake Mareotis.

2. 30 BC

   Roman annexation

   Octavian takes Alexandria after the deaths of Cleopatra VII and Mark Antony, making Egypt a private Roman province.

3. 1480 AD

   Citadel construction

   Mamluk Sultan Al-Ashraf Qaitbay builds a defensive fortress over the ruins of the collapsed Pharos Lighthouse.

4. 1882 AD

   British bombardment

   Royal Navy ships shell the city's fortifications, initiating seven decades of British military presence.

5. 2002 AD

   Bibliotheca opens

   The Bibliotheca Alexandrina opens near the ancient library's original location.

Choose your accommodation based on how far you want to be from the historic sights. Central stays put you within walking distance of museums and old cafes, but traffic noise is continuous. Eastern stays offer modern luxury towers and private sea access, but require 30-minute rides to reach historical landmarks.

• History enthusiastsRamleh — Walk directly to historic patisseries, the seafront, and tram lines.
• Food loversBahary — Stay steps away from fresh fish markets and local harbor dining.
• Luxury travelersMiami & Sidi Bishr — High-rise hotels offer private beach strips away from central traffic.
• Market shoppersManshiya — Boutique historic stays near traditional trading alleys and souks.

Alexandria runs horizontally along the coast. The primary transit axis follows the Corniche highway and parallel inner avenues. Hail rideshare cars for reliable fares, or ride the historic tramway for slow, cheap travel through central neighbourhoods.

• The Alexandrian tram system is one of the world's oldest. Line 1 and Line 2 run east-west; buy physical paper tickets from conductors onboard.

• Street taxis lack meters. App-based rideshare avoids fare disputes, especially during late hours.

• Use pedestrian underpasses where available. Driver speeds along the seafront highway are fast and unpredictable.

• Eastbound coastal traffic backs up severely between 14:00 and 17:00 when schools and offices finish.

Daily costs in Alexandria run lower than in Cairo or Red Sea resorts. Seafood prices depend on weight and market availability. Always carry physical Egyptian pounds in small bills for local transport and small markets.

• Seafood meal per person: 350–700 EGP

  Includes fresh grilled fish, rice, salads, and tea at seafood joints.

• City tram ticket: 5–10 EGP

  One-way ride anywhere on the central blue or yellow network.

• Museum entrance ticket: 150–300 EGP

  Standard entry rate for non-Egyptian visitors at state archaeological sites.

• Short rideshare trip: 40–80 EGP

  Covers a 5km route along the central Corniche.

• Card payments at sites

  State ticket counters require credit or debit cards for monument entry. Cash is rejected at site ticket boxes.

• Modest beachwear expectations

  Public beaches require modest swimwear. Hotel private beaches maintain relaxed international dress codes.

• Humidity levels

  Coastal air humidity stays high year-round. Pack breathable cotton clothes for summer walking.

• Winter rain squalls

  Winter brings sudden downpours known as Nawa. Check marine forecasts if taking harbor boat tours.